Machu Picchu. As I mentioned in my first post on Peru, I
thought that the hype might overshadow the real thing. But it is as if all the
noise and all the crowds, hush once you get to the top of the mountains and
find an abandoned city hidden in the clouds, surrounded only by sky and other
silent mountains. Even without knowing the exact history of Machu Picchu, just
seeing what humans have created, (and humans 600 years ago no less) with and in
respect for nature is humbling enough to leave anyone amazed. For the history
buff and selfie-taker alike, Machu Picchu is magical. You have proof of genius
and greatness that withstood time and conquests. It was as if nature, knowing
that the city was honoring it, shielded its location and kept it hidden under
its branches until it was safe to offer it back to the world.
Getting to Machu Picchu is not easy (easier than it was for its
first discoverer, Hiram Bingham, I am sure), but the Peruvians have left in a
bit of the adventure just to make you feel accomplished when you finally align
all pieces and get to stand at the citadel.
1. Getting to Machu Picchu: The
adventure begins
When you want to visit Machu Picchu, getting to Peru is the easy part. From there you still have many steps before reaching this legendary site. Assuming that your only goal is to get to Machu Picchu from Lima, you still need to take a flight, taxi, train, bus and/or hike to get to this wonder of the world.
- Get a flight from Lima to Cusco- Flight time is 1 hour. Few if any international
flights go directly to Cusco, but the flight from Lima is cheap approximately
$80 RT
- Taxi from Cusco to Poroy- The train from Cusco to Machu Picchu Pueblo (Aguas
Calientes) does not actually leave from Cusco, it leaves from Poroy which is
25-30 minutes away. You need a taxi to get there.
- Train from Poroy to Aguas Calientes- The train, either PeruRail or
Inka Rail, from Poroy to Aguas Calientes, the town at the bottom of the
hill from Machu Picchu, is 3.5 hours. The distance is not far, but the train
does not go more than 40 mph. Sit and enjoy the ride.
- Aguas Calientes to Machu Picchu itself- You can hike up the 6km hill to
Machu Picchu which takes about 1.5 hours at 4 am. Or you can pay $12 to take
the bus which takes 30 minutes. I say save the energy for Machu Picchu itself.
- Machu Picchu to Wayna Picchu (also refered to as Huaynapicchu)- If you want to see Machu Picchu
from above, you then need to factor in a strenuous hike of another 1.5 hours
and you need to plan this in advance as it is a separate ticket. More on this
below.
2. Plan your trip at least 3-6 months in advance (yes, you need this much)
We are not really plan-your-vacations-in-advance people, but we didn’t have a choice with Machu Picchu. The internet calendar dictated the first available dates for Machu Picchu so we bought our spots and planned the trip around that. This was two months in advance. To really get the dates you want, you should book 3-6 months in advance. This rule also applies to the train to and accommodation in Aguas Calientes (Machu Picchu Pueblo), the town below Machu Picchu.
- Pick your dates: End of May or early June is still good timing. It is after the
rainy season, but it is not peak season. July and August might promise better
weather, but it can also dish out 35 degree Celsius/95 degree Fahrenheit temperatures
which can be brutal for hiking.
- Pick your entry route- In all cases, you will need to book
your Machu Picchu tickets online. However,
there are three route options: 1) Machu Picchu, the citadel only, 2) Machu
Picchu and Huaynapicchu (aka Wayna Picchu) and 3) Machu Picchu and La Montana. Entrance
to main citadel of Machu Picchu is now limited to the first 2000 people per day.
Huaynapicchu, the peak jutting up over the Citadel (the nose of the face if you
will), is limited to 200 per day. La Montana is the hill behind Machu Picchu
and those tickets are limited to 400 people per day. In terms of fitness level,
the citadel is the easiest to do, La Montana the second easiest and Huaynapicchu
the hardest.
- Local Tip: If you plan on going to Huaynapicchu, pick the 10-11 am
entrance. There
are two time slots, one at 7-8 am and the other at 10- 11am. Our local guide
told us that it is extremely common for it to be foggy and rainy in the
mornings in Machu Picchu, but it usually clears up around 10 am. This is
exactly the situation we faced. The strenuous hike up to Wayna Picchu is
primarily for the panoramic view overlooking Machu Picchu, so it is a shame to
go in the morning when the fog would mask all of this.
3. Don’t put let the fear of altitude sickness rule your trip
Read about altitude sickness and its causes/cures, but don’t let it
scare you out of or ruin your trip. We went against the advice to leave Cusco
immediately and go to Machu Picchu pueblo directly mainly because of logistics.
However, we found that if you take it easy the first few days, rest, drink
water, don’t walk too much, eat light and just really heed your body’s
warnings, most people will be fine. And for those who aren’t there are oxygen
tanks at hotels, pharmacies with pills at every corner and a whole town of
people who are geared for how to help treat sorochce, as it is locally
called.
4. Enjoy the train as part of the
full experience
Book your train tickets online in advance. There are two main train
companies:
Peru rail and
Inca rail. Both have different class
options that allow you for either a basic trip or one with a greater view,
enhanced meals and music or entertainment. We found that Peru rail had more
options in terms of timing and routes from Cusco, but Inca Rail can be a bit
cheaper when comparing certain class tickets.
We took Perurail’s Vistadome there and its Expedition back. All the
train options are fairly expensive (+/- $150 RT per person), so if you are
looking to save money, but still want to savor the experience, book a day time
ride with skylights (PeruRail’s Vistadome or Inca Rail’s Executive Class) train
on your way there, but then an evening, more economic Expedition or Premium
Economy on the way back. It is a good way to save 15-30 USD/per person.
5. Don’t neglect Cusco. Stay at least a couple nights.
It is one of the most beautiful cities in South America. We stayed 5 nights and
didn’t get bored. There are also a ton of fascinating day trips to do from
Cusco:
Maras, Moray, Rainbow hill, etc
6. Don’t be afraid to stay more
than one night in Aguas Calientes (Machu Pichu pueblo)
Everyone will advise you not to
stay in Aguas Calientes more than one night. And there are many reasons why
this is good advice. However, you can miss out on a lot in order to avoid some
commercialism and tourist traps. The point is that after all the effort to get
to the Machu Picchu site, you don’t want to shorten your time there by having
to worry about catching a train. We saw an exodus of people leave the park at
3-4pm just to be able to catch the evening train back. I think it is definitely
worth the extra night to stay at Machu Pichu until closing time and get a few
hours more at the incredible site.
The extra night also means you can fit in little known treasures
like the
Manuel
Chávez Ballón Site Museum and attached gardens. Or for the die hard, I
think that there is more than enough to see to book 2 days at Machu Picchu. There
is no two-day pass, but it could be worth paying for two separate entrance
tickets just to see it all. In fact, one day only at Machu Picchu usually means
that you miss out on the farther sites like Temple of Moon, the Inka Bridge or the
Sun gate. In terms of where to stay, there is a village full of accommodation
options, but much of it is not the highest quality, booking it early means you
have your choice of the nicer/cheaper places.
7. Good packing is key
Leave your big suitcase at your hotel in Cusco and pack a weekend
bag. Most hotels willingly accommodate this request. It is a common one. For
your Machu Pichu days, remember to pack exercise clothes, rain gear, mosquito
repellant, sunscreen and water. Hiking boots are a must especially if you do Wayna
Pichu.
8. Day of: Wake up early. Very
early. It is worth it.
We got up at 4:45 am and were in line by 5:30. The line for the bus
was already up the street but we only waited 25 minutes. The park only opens at
6am, but it takes 30 min to get there. 4:45 was not that early after all.
9. Get a tour guide but do not to arrange ahead of time
It might seem excessive to pay 40-60 USD on a 2-hour
personal guide. However, Machu Picchu does not have any signage and as well
preserved as it is, the sites and their significance are not at all obvious. We
bought a detailed book on the important sites and still hired a guide and I
would recommend both. There is a lot of mystery shrouding Machu Picchu, what it
was built for, who lived there etc, but it is invaluable to hear the theories
and accounts on what you are looking at while you are looking at it. TIP: You
don’t need to book a guide from your hotel or from the town. It is more
expensive and there are just as many certified guides at the entrance of the
site. Also, if you understand Spanish, it is worth hiring a Spanish-speaking
guide as they are less expensive. Guides charge more depending on the language
you need: Spanish is the cheapest.
10. Bring your passport to Machu Picchu for a stamp!
Technically, you aren’t supposed to have stamps from
anything but official border crossings in your passport, but I had an expiring
passport that I didn’t mind.
Don't forget to respect the site.
Machu Picchu is a natural wonder, a world heritage site, historically
important and one of a kind, don't get carried away with your selfie taking and adventuring. The site is not about you. Be respectful and don’t leave a mark.
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