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Locked down but not out in Italy

Singing from the balconies! One nice thing about this crisis ... solidarity! “Guess you’re not living like a tourist anymore,” was the funny, truthful and somewhat gut-wrenching message of a friend the day the lockdown in Italy began. Today is day 6. My beloved Italia has been hit hard with the COVID19 epidemic. With the second largest elderly population in the world, the epidemic has meant a disproportionate amount of deaths in the country. So though I haven’t been worried about contracting it myself, this isn’t about me or someone like me who, if contracted it would probably have a sucky couple of weeks and then recover. It is about if someone like me contracted it and then spread it to a person with a complicated health history or an elderly person with a weakened immune system. Eerily orderly: Lines for the grocery store, each person one meter apart In a country with no concept (and no physical room really) for personal space, and in a city with reproachable hygie

Listography Roma

I don't know how long I will be in Rome, but I thought I would dig up my list from the last time I was living here and share it with you all. As with my DC one, this list, for me, serves as a reminder to make the most of my time here. For everyone else, here are some ideas for wonderful things to do in la Citta Eterna! 
(N.B. This list is a work in progress. Send in your suggestions or thoughts!)

Official Living like a Tourist- Rome Edition

Mamma mia! Sei a Roma! - Must-Dos in Rome
  1. Colosseo- Visit the inside only once/Outside is more impressive 
  2. Foro Romano- Best to have a tour of this 
  3. Throw a coin in the Trevi Fountain to ensure your return to Rome
  4. Tour of St. Peter's Basilica 
  5. Sistine Chapel 
  6. Piazza Navona- at sunset the colors are amazing  
  7. Pantheon - stare up into the Occulus
  8. Top of Il Vittoriano for a great view 
  9. Climb the Spanish Stairs in Piazza di Spagna 
  10. Porta San Sebastiano & Aurelia Wall 
  11. Fontana del Tritone  
  12. Fontana dei Fiumi  
  13. Ara Pacis  
  14. Augustus Mausoleum 
  15. Museo Borghese 
  16. Trajan Markets 
  17. Column of Trajan  
  18. Terme/Baths of Caracalla  

  19. Porta Portese Market   
  20. Piazza Dei Cavallieri di Malta &amp- The key hole   
  21. Giardino degli Aranci
  22. Ponte Rotto   
  23. Bocca della Verita   
  24. Pie’ di Marmo   
  25. Monte Testaccio 
  26. Piramide   
  27. The Passetto
  28. The Scavi- excavations underneath the Vatican
  29. S.M. Concezione- Cappucin Church - decorated with the bones of Monks 
  30. Carabinieri Museum
  31. Globe Theater in Villa Borghese- Replica of Globe in London
  32. Area Sacra- temple remains  (cat sanctuary) 
  33. La Fraschetta- especially Pasta Fagioli- S. Francesco a Ripa-Trastevere 
  34. Renato e Luisa- another classic near Campo dei Fiori
  35. La Villetta- Roman Dishes- Viale Aventino- Ostiense 
  36. Osteria Pistoia- Porta Portese
  37. Mo Mo- Pizza & Pasta- Monteverde Nuovo 
  38. Per Bacco- Unconventional Pizza; also good for meat (I've heard)- Marconi 
  39. Al Fontanone- Great Zuppa di Ceci (Not great pizza)- Trastevere 
  40. Casa Coppelle- Pasta with modern twist; great ambiance, bit pricey but worth it- Pantheon 
  41. Angelina- Modern Restaurant - Testaccio 
  42. Il Tajut- Hearty Friulian food- San Giovanni 
  43. Gusto- Brunch- Centro 
  44. Met- Modern setting, Mainly traditional food- Ponte Milvio  
  45. Cul de Sac- Cheeses & Wine- Governo Vecchio  
  46. Antico Tevere- Unique view of the river- good food 
  47. Da Felice- A classic in Testaccio
  48. Osteria Palmira- Great neighborhood place
  49. SAID- Old Chocolate Factory turned restaurant- San Lorenzo  
  50. Osteria dei Pazzi- Garbatella  
  51. Baccano- Semi-French/Semi-Italian place to get French wine for a change- Trevi Fountain 

  52. Pan'Unto- great & cheap pizza- Trastevere  
  53. Da Ivo a Trastevere- S. Francesco a Ripa 
  54. Baffetto- famous
  55. Il Corallo- different types of pizza, nice atmosphere, outdoor seating- Navona 
  56. Cavecanem- Gorgonzola & Pear Pizza- Trastevere 
  57. La Gatta Mangiona- Great neighborhood pizza place that has become known beyond the neighborhood boundaries- Monteverde
  58. Al Grottino- best carrot cake in Rome! pretty great pizza too
  59. Novecento- Pizza & Pasta- Ostiense 
  60. Il Brillo Parlante- Good restaurant in town
  61. Cantina Lucifero
  62. The Mirror- "wild" (for Italy) pizza combinations - Trastevere 
  63. Thai Inn- Thai- Monteverde 
  64. Taste East- Thai/Asian
  65. Asmara- Ethiopian Restaurant - Termini
  66. Corno d'Africa- Ethiopian- Monteverde 
  67. La Cucaracha- Mexican Restaurant - Prati
  68. Riad Nour- Moroccan- Prati 
  69. Jaipur- Indian- Trastevere 
  70. Ouzeri - Greek- Trastevere
  71. Elleniko- Greek takeaway- Aventino
  72. Mandaloun Cafe- Lebanese
  73. Sushi & Noodles- Aventino 
  74. Haus Garten Bagel Bar- Prati 
  75. Mandaloun- Lebanese-  2 locationsVia Veneto/Piazza Navona
  76. Temakinho- Brazilian Sushi- Monti
  77. Wok- All you can eat sushi- Prati 
  78. Mekong- Vietnamese- Furio Camillo

  79. Art Cafe- Discotecca- Nicer in summer with outdoor dance floor 
  80. La Maison- Discotecca 
  81. Alpheus - Discotecca- Great Techno music- Ostiense 
  82. Caffe Letterario- Poetry readings & Alternative Music- Ostiense 
  83. Big Mama- Blues House in Trastevere 
  84. Hookah at Sciam- Campo dei Fiori 
  85. Micca Club- Burlesque Night on Fridays

  86. St. Peter's Basilica
  87. San Giovanni in Laterano
  88. Santa Maria in Trastevere- gorgeous mosaics
  89. Sant Andrea del Quirinale 
  90. San Carlo alle Quattro fontane
  91. San Bernardo delle Terme
  92. San Paolo fuori le Mure
  93. San Lorenzo fuori le Mure
  94. San Teodoro
  95. Santa Maria dell’Orazione e Morte- church dedicated to death 
  96. Santa Maria in Campinelli 
  97. San Giovanni dei Fiorentini
  98. Santa Maria in Aracoeli- Pza Venezia
  99. Santi Giovanni e Paolo 
  100. San Gregorio Magno
  101. Santi Nereo e Achilleo- marytyred Apostle pics on wall
  102. Santa Maria Maggiore
  103. San Pietro In Vincoli- Michaelangelo statue of Moses
  104. Il Basilico San Pauolo Pietro - EUR
  105. Scala Santa
  106. Santa Croce in Gerusalemme- full-sized replica of Shroud of Turin 
  107. Santi Quattro Coronati- Cloister
  108. San Clemente
  109. S.M. Della Pace
  110. Sant Agnese in Agone
  111. San Luigi dei Francesi- Caravaggio painting
  112. San Ivo
  113. San Adrea della Valle 
  114. La chiesa Americana- Santa Susanna- tour
  115. Saint Ignazio di Loyola
  116. Santa Maria Sopra Minerva 
  117. Gesu Church
  118. Trinita dei Monti church- views of rome 
  119. Sant’ Andrea delle fratte 
  120. San Francesco a Ripa- Bernini’s Beate Ecstasy
  121. Santa Cecilia in Trastevere
  122. Scavi- St. Peter's Tomb
  123. Santa Maria della Vittoria- Bernini’s Teresa in Ecstasy
  124. Santa Maria del Popolo- Caravaggio paintings

  125. Cheer for Roma at a Partita di Calcio 
  126. See the Squadra Nazionale play
  127. Run in a Marathon: La Maratona di Roma  
  128. Run in Half Marathon: Mezza maratona Ostia-Roma 
  129. Bike rentals in Villa Borghese

  130. Della Palma Gelateria for the Ciocolatto Fondente- Pantheon  
  131. Giolitti for amazing fresh fruit granita (Granita di Frutta)- Pantheon  
  132. Tony's Gelateria- Monteverde Nuovo  
  133. Pompi, Il Re del Tiramisu- Pistacchio Tiramisu is amazing!- San Giovanni  
  134. Grom-gelato- Piazza Navona & Pantheon; Campo dei Fiori
  135. La Romana- best of the best- Via Ostiense

  136. Ombre Rosse- Wine or Beer with a nice outdoor terrace- Trastevere  
  137. Vin Allegro- Wine with a nice outdoor terrace- Trastevere  
  138. .075 - Wine bar- Cool setting, good wine and beer list- Circo Massimo  
  139. Enoteca Il Piccolo- Wine Bar- One of my favorites; good caponata as a snack- Governo Vecchio 
  140. Mercat- Wine bar
  141. Oasi Della Birra- Beer & great aperitivo- Testaccio  
  142. Etabli
  143. Le Bon Bock Cafe- Whiskey/Beer- Monte Verde  
  144. Donegal Pub- Irish Pub- San Saba
  145. Antica Birreria Peroni- Center
  146. Roma Beer Company- Aventino

  147. Caffe Sant'Eustachio- renowned for their coffee- they have their own roast   
  148. Caffe Tazza d'Oro- for a Granita di Caffe  
  149. Cafffe Camerino- "Il caffe con tre effe"- Largo Argentina  
  150. Really most "bars" outside the tourist areas

  151. AquaMadre Hammam- Trastevere
  152. Terme dei Papi- Hot Springs Outside of Rome
  153. Terme di Rapolano- 2.5 hours outside of Rome, but I had to list it...

  154. Doppio Zero- Wine/cocktails, not the nicest service- Ostiense  
  155. Freni e Frizioni - Casual- Not my favorite but popular  
  156. Oasi della Birra (see above)
  157. Momo-
  158. Baylon Cafe
  159. Rosso- Aventino

  160. December- Christmas Tree & Nativity Scene at Vatican  
  161. January 6- Festa della Befana- Piazza Navona  
  162. Roasted chestnuts on most street corners in the center
  163. Panettone from Roscioli or really any supermarket

  164. Villa Borghese park 
  165. Pincio Gardens- panoramic view of rome  
  166. Villa Doria Pamphilj park
  167. Villa Schiarra park
  168. Parco Appio Claudio  
  169. Circo Massimo  
  170. Tiber Island  
  171. Market at Campo dei Fiori  
  172. Villa Celimontana Park
  173. Vatican gardens 
  174. Gianicolo Hill  
  175. Appia Antica 
  176. EUR lake

  177. Arricia- where porchetta comes from- Castelli Romani  
  178. Nemi - known for fragoline- Castelli Romani  
  179. Bracciano  
  180. Trevignano

  181. Ristorante- The Library 
  182. Rooftop of the Minerva Hotel- Pantheon     
  183. Put a lock on Ponte Milvio